We prefer whole milk in this recipe, but 1 or 2 percent low-fat milk may be substituted. This fried chicken fried up as juicy, crisp, and brown as the traditional standby. Letting the dredged chicken sit for 30 minutes before frying evenly hydrated the coating and prevented any dry spots. We found that adding both baking soda and baking powder to the buttermilk produced just enough carbon dioxide to lighten the coating. Following a classic three-step breading process, we gave the chicken a very light coating of cornstarch, then dipped it in a buttermilk-egg mixture, then dredged it in a final coating of seasoned cornstarch and cornmeal. Mixing the cornstarch with cornmeal delivered a more substantial and more flavorful crust that fried up perfectly. However, the coating was thin and lacked flavor. Cornstarch produced the crispiest crust, and although it has less binding powder than flour (because it contains a lot less protein), this coating still clung nicely to the chicken. We tried cornstarch, rice flour, potato flour, potato starch, cornmeal, and corn flour. Could we develop a recipe that delivered moist chicken coated with a crisp, mahogany crust-without traditional flour helping us out? Once the chicken was brined (we knew from experience this would ensure juicy meat), we ran a battery of gluten-free coating tests to see if any could match all-purpose flour. The starch in flour delivers a coating that will be brown and crisp, while the protein in flour allows the coating to cling to the chicken and stay in place. Typically, the chicken is dredged in flour, then a buttermilk-egg batter, then another coating of flour. There’s a lot of debate about the best way to make fried chicken, but it’s pretty much a given that flour is going to be in the recipe.
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